2013 Mother Goose to Alaska

Mother Goose starts off with a bang as we send our flotilla off with a shot from the yacht club’s cannon! The outside of Vancouver Island offers an escape from the normalcy of daily life. The extended length of this trip allows you to really put aside the everyday stresses and worries and focus on life’s other priorities – family, friends, nature, and creating new memories of a lifetime. The casual cruising from Bellingham to Ketchikan is alluring because of its remoteness and beauty. Many times we will be the only boats in an anchorage and it is not unusual to go an entire day and not see another boat outside of our flotilla. This isolation allows true immersion into the tranquility of the natural world including the profound beauty of the Fjordland Recreational Area in British Columbia. Expect to experience marine mammals including Orca whales, humpback whales and sea otters, as well as a multitude of birds. Another way we’ll enjoy nature is through feasting on the crab and fish we are able to catch along the way.

As we travel, our onboard naturalist will aide in pointing out interesting wildlife, points of historical interest and a bit about the indigenous peoples of the areas we are visiting over the VHF radio to ensure you don’t miss a thing. The naturalist will also be providing dinghy tours, tide pooling and hikes for those who want to join in as we head north. This leg stops at many quaint little towns such as Bamfield with its boardwalk and spectacular beach, cat house sanctuary and pirate’s cabana, Tofino with its brightly colored buildings and charming little shops, and Shearwater with its great restaurant and pub where a few competitive games of pool have been known to be played by crew members and clients.

During our travels, whales and porpoises often grace us with their presence along with rafts of otters and harbor seals galore. One of our stops is in Culpepper Lagoon whose beauty is unmatched. The landscape up Mathieson Channel starts to change as dense, tree-filled hills begin to soar toward the sky and sheer rock faces protrude from the sea as if thrust upward by Poseidon himself. They line the channel, towering over us like sentinels guarding the entrance to the beauty that lay beyond. It is amazing that life can exist on these sheer rock faces, but somehow trees manage to find enough room to squeeze in their roots and soak up enough minerals to survive. On the high peaks, the mountain goats are able to show off their agility by grazing along these cliffs, which seem utterly impossible to find a footing. The accumulated water trickling down one of the giant granite faces amasses near the bottom into an enormous waterfall, creating the very picturesque scene that is known as Kynoch Falls. The steep faces of the 3,000 foot peaks plunge from the mountaintops down to the water’s edge and beyond. The channels we cruise are so deep, and the edges so sheer, that we can touch our bows to the walls and still be in over a thousand feet of water. The towering rocks on each side converge to a narrow entrance leading into Culpepper Lagoon where timing is of the essence when navigating the rapids guarding the entrance. Once through the rapids, the tremendous views and pristine waters welcome us with open arms and one can’t help but be in awe of the magnificence of the locale we call home for the evening. We slowly cruise to our anchorage for the evening so as not to disturb the haul-out of 15 or 20 harbor seals, eagles feeding on the shore, and any bears which might be loitering around. One gets the humbling reminder here that we are simply visitors to nature’s phenomenal wonderland and it’s thrilling to know that places like this still exist.

After some 900 miles and countless new memories later, all hands are feeling justifiably proud of this accomplishment. To round out the full adventure we suggest spending a few days in historical Ketchikan reliving the exciting times of Creek Street and entertaining locals with your riveting tales of cruising the Canadian and Alaskan waters. We hope that you will be able to join us for this perennial favorite. So come and choose the path less traveled; it might make all the difference.

As owner of NW Explorations and the leader of many of the Mother Goose legs, Captain Brian is often asked by our clients what are some of his favorite spots to cruise and visit in Alaska. After realizing his responses could be encompassed into one leg of many of his favorite spots, the leg known as “Captain’s Choice” was created and has been a success over the last few years. This leg originates in Ketchikan. Captain Brian’s first trip to Ketchikan was in 1967. There were no cruise ships or tourist shops. The “airport port” was on Annette Island and was the old WWII Navy base. The bars would ask loggers not to wear their spiked boots into the bar; most wouldn’t. Creek Street was in a transition period between its colorful past as the red light district to its current status as a tourist destination. The charm of Ketchikan is still with us today with logging shows, great fishing and spectacular sightseeing. Plan on coming a few days early prior to the start of our trip to indulge in the excitement Ketchikan has to offer. Spend a couple of days sightseeing and relive the colorful past of this Alaskan town. After you have provisioned at one of the modern supermarkets and been checked out on your boat over the first two days, we will depart on our first day of cruising.

As we leave Ketchikan we will head south and head for the southern tip of Prince of Wales Island where we will find the protected waters of a designated wilderness area. We will anchor our first night in these calm protected waters. Be on the lookout for whales, eagles and bear. Our naturalist aboard the lead boat will be doing the same thing. The next day we will be stopping at Hydaburg, which is primarily a native village. Don’t miss the opportunity to watch the elders carving new totem poles or, if we are fortunate enough, our visit will coincide with a totem pole raising ceremony. If you are interested in acquiring native artwork, be sure to take the time to locate one of the local artists. You won’t find any galleries here but even better you may find the actual artist and some of their works prior to being shipped out to the galleries. Next stop is Craig. Craig is a delightful town originally settled by fisherman and loggers of Norwegian descent. Craig is host to many shops and restaurants worth visiting while in town. Now we begin the wilderness portion of our trip with our next anchorage at Coronation Island. Coronation Island is like a little Jurassic Park. It is the only place we visit where we have consistently found albatross, eagles, sea otters, orca and humpback whales as well as many other species of birds.

Our journey will continue up the west coast of Baranoff Island where we will enjoy the remoteness of the Baranoff Wilderness, isolated fjords and protected anchorages where we are likely the only boats. Plan on a trip to one of the small islands offshore where we will have the opportunity to observe the Stellar sea lion haul-out. While these magnificent animals remain on the endangered species list, we will be able to view them up close and personal. Our last night prior to entering Sitka will be spent at Goddard Hot Springs. There are two private enclosed hot springs near a beach which offer a fantastic opportunity to relax in natural baths in a unique atmosphere. You can control the temperature of this natural hot spring by adding a little cold water and it is the perfect way to relax and watch the sun set on our last night underway. The next day we enter Sitka, the capital of Alaska when it was owned by Russia. Spend an extra day to visit the old Russian church as well as the many shops and the only National Park dedicated to totem poles. With so much native history, beautiful cruising grounds, and wildlife, come see why this is the “Captain’s Choice”.

Note: Choice in itinerary will be determined based upon procuring required permits to enter Glacier Bay.

People are enthralled with Alaska for many reasons: it’s the last frontier, the unspoiled natural beauty, the plentiful wildlife not normally seen, native culture, glaciers and the fact that it offers an escape from everything else. Whatever your reason for an interest in what Alaska has to offer, this leg will meet your expectations and more. Your grand adventure begins in Sitka, the former capital of Alaska when owned by Russia. Sitka is an extraordinary city that deserves additional time to explore. The only National Totem Park, Alaska Raptor Center which rehabilitates injured birds and historic downtown Sitka are only a few of the many highlights worth seeing.

From Sitka we will cruise through narrow and sheltered passages to the old gold mine of Klag Bay and then on to spend a day in the historic village of Pelican. Pelican is a charming Alaskan town with a population of about 75 people, perched along the edge of the inlet. The main “street” is a classic boardwalk (a state historic landmark). Be sure to stop into Rosie’s Bar & Grill, a Pelican institution, for a beer, great meal and chat with the friendly locals.

Glacier Bay Itinerary
In order to manage the human influence and maintain the intimacy and unspoiled essence of the area, the Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve limits the number of boaters allowed in the park at any one time. If we are able to obtain the necessary permits, we will enter Glacier Bay, which is arguably one of the grandest of the United States National Parks. Because the number of boaters is restricted at any one time, Glacier Bay feels almost as though you have it all to yourself and there is a sense of gratitude that there was foresight to protect this majestic area by making it a National Park. However, before we enter into Glacier Bay, we stop at the charming little town of Elfin Cove, a favorite of crew and past clients. At Elfin Cove there are opportunities to enjoy the small town and the locals, take your dinghies out for a spin and hopefully see some whales up close, or go on a fishing trip for salmon or halibut. There is often a gathering in the evenings with everyone to enjoy the beautiful surroundings, socialize over a glass of wine, and indulge in a feast of fish that was caught earlier that day. Right outside of the harbor at Elfin Cove, the Fairweather Mountains lay, making their appearance every so often when the weather’s just right. In the evenings, the massive range glows underneath the sunset as the clouds hover above, painting a picture-perfect night.

Soon we travel to Glacier Bay where we will spend three nights in this natural wonderland. Interestingly enough, when European explorer George Vancouver first traveled through this area, Glacier Bay did not even exist. Instead there was a wall of ice 150 feet high. Today this ice has long since receded. Cruising “up bay” we will visit several smaller glaciers within the Park that once fed into the larger glacier which George Vancouver observed. We will visit Reid, Grand Pacific, and Margerie Glaciers. The size of these glaciers dwarfs our boats and a sense of awe permeates the bay. Wildlife thrives here as the Park serves as a refuge for grizzly bears, pregnant harbor seals and recently birthed pups, and an array of rare and seldom seen birds. Glacier Bay is also a major feeding destination for humpback whales. It is an astounding sight to watch a large breaching humpback whale spin into the air, water rocketing off its sides.

Tracy Arm Itinerary
In the event that Glacier Bay permits are not obtained, we have another itinerary which offers up close and personal access to glaciers in which you will certainly not be disappointed. From Pelican, our next stop is Elfin Cove. The lovely community of Elfin Cove is the perfect haven for those wanting an exciting day of fishing. If you have ever dreamed of catching that 40 lb salmon, this is the place to make those fish tales come true! From Elfin Cove we will travel to Tenakee Springs, a small community of about 100 people, located on Chichagof Island, which features a bathhouse with a 107 degree sulfur hot mineral spring for public bathing. The locals here swear by the therapeutic properties of soaking in these tubs.

From one “spa” to another, the indulgence in the natural hot springs offered by Alaska is far from over as we cruise from Tenakee Springs on to Warm Springs Bay where you can luxuriate in a bathhouse which features three private rooms, each with a spacious imported wood tub from Japan that visitors can fill with hot spring water. Or, for the more adventurous, you can walk up a short boardwalk that meanders through the woods until you come to a spectacular natural hot springs. Here, there are several rocky pools where the water reaches 105 degree F. Adjacent to the pools is a gorgeous cascading waterfall, creating the most tranquil of atmospheres.

This alternative itinerary provides us the opportunity to travel through one of our naturalist’s favorite cruising grounds as it is where humpback whales have been known to bubblenet feed, creating an absolutely amazing sight. This method of feeding is where several whales circle a school of fish underwater and “herd” them with their bubbles until the whales finally come up through the center of the “net” with their mouths wide open. It is an unbelievable sight to see the water’s surface churning followed by the powerful emergence of these large yet serene creatures, mouth agape, with fish flopping amidst it all – quite spectacular! Traveling through whale country, we head to our next stop in Tracy Arm where you will experience the Sawyer Glacier the way most people never get a chance – up close among the pack ice with one of the last tidewater glaciers that is still calving directly into the sea. Our Grand Banks will push “bergy bits” out of our path as we navigate as close to the glacier as possible. We will see the harbor seals and their newborn pups on the ice flows and with a little bit of luck, we will see the glacier calve directly into the ocean, creating a roar and big splash like none you have ever heard or seen before.

Both Itineraries
It is unfortunate our adventure must end, but our journey is completed as we travel to the capital city of Juneau. However, it is worth planning a few extra days onto the end of Mother Goose to explore this quintessential Alaska town, which is host to many great restaurants and locally owned shops. Also, if you haven’t gotten your fill of glaciers yet, be sure to visit the Mendenhall Glacier located just outside of town.

Glaciers, whales, fishing excursions, local Alaska towns, and phenomenal cruising is some of what you can expect to experience on the Best of Glacial Alaska leg. Our trip starts in the state capital of Juneau, a vibrant city deserved of some extra time to explore. The adventure starts right away as on our first day we will head straight for Tracy Arm Cove where we will anchor for the night in preparation for the following day’s journey to the Sawyer Glacier. Here you will get to experience a glacier the way most people never get a chance to – up close and amongst the pack ice. In fact your Grand Banks will push through the floating ice as we cruise up to the glacier’s edge, passing harbor seals along the way. Reminiscing about the excitement of the day with your family and friends, in the warm salon of your comfortable Grand Banks yacht, while anchored in the most inspiring of locations, really makes you feel like there is nowhere else you’d want to be.

Our travels next take us to the breathtaking anchorage of Cannery Cove. Expect to lose your breath (once again!) as this little cove feels like you are inside an alpine “bowl” with sheer dramatic walls plummeting into the deep waters below. Our naturalist leads a dinghy tour within the cove in order to further explore the anchorage we call home for the evening. There is a mudflat along the shoreline which offers an excellent feeding ground for bears. We have been known to see a mama bear and her cubs dining here before. It’s hard to determine if the grandeur of the sheer ice walls and glaciers or the wildlife are more spectacular. This is whale country and the number of whales we tend to see makes this trip worthwhile in itself. On the way to our next stop, the Norwegian fishing community of Petersburg, expect to lose count of the number of humpback whales you will spot. Often these humpbacks get so close to the boats that you’re looking straight down on them and can actually smell their breath when they come up for air. But luckily we don’t have to choose which is more spectacular as we will experience both incredible scenery and abundant wildlife! Once in Petersburg, there is an opportunity to stroll through town checking out all of the little shops or to dine out in this picturesque town.

On this trip we will also spend two days in the town of Wrangell which is very much a “real” Alaskan working town with very friendly people. Since very few cruise ships stop here, it is not too touristy. It is the main gateway to the Stikine River and the Anan Wildlife Observatory, so there are small tour boats available to get to those places. The Anan Wildlife Observatory is well worth the trip. Anan Creek has the largest salmon run in SE Alaska and therefore brings bear in to feed. Should we be lucky enough to secure permits to visit the observatory, you will be able to view these bear feeding up close from an observation deck. In addition there are trails throughout the surrounding forest which can be hiked but keep in mind there are no fences – the bears could be hiking right along with you! In Wrangell you can partake in a jetboat ride up the Stikine River, one of North America’s few “wild” rivers, to the Shakes Glacier where your captain will do his best to navigate the “bergy bits” and get you right up to the glacier. Also on this trip there is the possibility of seeing bear and moose. Our next stop is a visit to the quaint village of Meyers Chuck. This town offers an extraordinary gift shop with high quality items from renowned local artisans. The quaint, village charm of Meyers Chuck is highlighted with the hospitality of Cassie, who runs the local post office and is the local baker. Cassie will bake some amazing apple pies as well as bring you fresh cinnamon rolls right to your swim step in the morning, still hot from the oven. This amazing voyage will end in the historic town of Ketchikan. Visit Creek Street while you are there and get a feel for what the town was like during its heyday when prospectors were here in search of gold as well as off-hours entertainment.

This trip has it all!! Fly into the picturesque and charming village of Ketchikan, Alaska. Spend a day sightseeing or sport fishing prior to starting this fantastic voyage from Ketchikan, Alaska to Bellingham, WA. We have put together the best of three previously separate trips: Misty Fjords, the Inside Passage, and Desolation Sound into one exciting experience that gives you the best of all three in one. Join us as we depart Ketchikan and spend our first day exploring Roosevelt Lagoon where we have spotted brown bears, trumpeter swans and eagles in previous visits. We then move on to Yes Bay where crab pots are set in anticipation of a crab feed that night. The next day we enter the unforgettable majesty of Misty Fjords National Monument. This is truly one of nature’s wonders. Waters are 1,000 feet deep right up to the base of sheer cliffs which rise up to 4,000 foot mountains that are glittered with spectacular waterfalls. During our visit within Misty Fjords we frequently see brown bears, and at this time of year we are often fortunate enough to see moms with this year’s cubs. From Misty Fjords we will move on to Foggy Bay. Foggy Bay is a great place to dinghy up the inlet looking for bears on the shore and eagles in the trees. At night, keep an eye on the shoreline for we have seen wolves exploring the beach during the late hours. The next day we will round Cape Caution and spend a couple of days at Port McNeill. For those who are interested in native culture and native art, there is a trip to Alert Bay, led by our naturalist, and the possibility of an extra Orca whale watching experience.

Lagoon Cove, in the Broughtons, is our next stop on this incredible cruise. This is always a favorite with our clients as we enjoy fresh shrimp, a variety of appetizers, cocktails, and bear stories as only Bill Barber, owner of Lagoon Cove, can tell them. We will time our entrance into Forward Harbour with the currents that flow in front of the entrance. For the next few days our movements are orchestrated with slack water at the various rapids as we negotiate through Desolation Sound. We will spend the night at Octopus Marine Park and Grace Harbour while we are transiting this pristine area. Both of these anchorage offer excellent kayaking, dinghy trips, and interesting nature walks. From Grace Harbour we make our way to the Sunshine Coast and Pender Harbour where there are options for fine dining, a visit to a local pub or dining on board while watching the world go by in this small vacation community. Next stop is the town of Chemainus on the eastern shore of Vancouver Island, which is host to great murals depicting their rich logging and mill history, a shopping area with interesting shops, a dinner theater that is quite good, and a nice selection of dining options. Montague Harbour is next with a tour led by our naturalist that includes what looks like a white sandy beach, but is actually a 10,000 year old midden. This spot was used for 10,000 years by the indigenous First Nation people to gather and open shellfish. Over time the surf ground up the shells creating the white beach here today. The tour continues with a great walk along the beach and if at low tide, some of the best tide pooling available. The evening is highlighted with a memorable trip to the Hummingbird Pub and an unforgettable dinner and ride back in an old 1950’s school bus with many voices trying to remember the lyrics to “On top of Blueberry Hill”.

From the mystique of Alaska, to the grandeur of British Columbia, to the splendor of the San Juan Islands, we reach our final destination at Bellingham, WA. This is our last night aboard our vessels, which have not just been our transportation but have become our home over the last 24 days. The next morning, lots of tears and hugs are exchanged as we all say goodbye to what are no longer new friends, but good friends. Come join us for this unforgettable experience.